For some reason, Kalimantan always seemed like a distant, mysterious, junglecovered home to endangered orangutans and fabulous diamonds. But the South Kalimantan province capital of Banjarmasin, just an hours flight away from Jakarta, belies many myths about the island of Borneo.

Theres certainly no mystery about Banjarmasin. On the surface, it looks like many other cities around Indonesia, with congested traffic and buildings no higher than four-