THE source of the merriment that night was Moses Niwari. It was just after dusk at a small hamlet in the saddle of Papua, when this youth began to sing songs of his ancestors. Moses plucked his guitar painted in pale colors. Three other youths accompanied him on the ukulele, bass and another guitar.

People of the neighborhood gathered round. Some moved forward to dance. Others joined in. They formed a line, then their swaying bodies circled aro