I remember a tiny dirt-poor farming village surrounded by wide open spaces dotted with crumbling temples. The year was 1975. In those days the one-story museum was in a sleepy garden where the heat clung heavily to the remains of ancient walls, bases and statuary scattered unattended in the open air as sparrows swooped in and out of the maja trees.

I woke up a becak driver under a shade tree and we settled on a small sum to take me on a 3-hour tur