For all its 250-square-kilometers, you hardly know its there. Approaching from either the north or west, the parks entrance comes up so suddenly that I flew past the sign, then had to back up. The gatekeepers wont give it away either. They were lounging around on motorbikes chatting up the local girls.

In the remote northeast corner of Java, Balurans unprepossessing entrance explains why so many tourists pass it on the main road without even reali