DONT look for Ijen in the travel guides. Nowadays on Java you have to go further (290 kilometers south of Surabaya) to find the truly intriguing phenomena. As well as being an awesome geographic wonder, this high country region is also one of Indonesias premier agro-tourism destinations.

Made up of six volcanic peaks from 1,200 to 3,050 meters high, the whole eastern end of Java is dominated by the high and seldom-visited Ijen Plateau. Though dor