WE stopped in the middle of the rainforest at the top of the mountain, turned off the engine and just listened. Sounds of jungle birds pierced the air, monkeys screamed, and at five-minute intervals pairs of hornbills passed overhead sounding like locomotives. Strangler figs silently choked the life out of trees whose massive 35-meter-high canopies blocked out the sun. An hour later, we reached the plantation guesthouse where—two months aft