ONE of the largest and most honored Chinese temple complexes in Indonesia, Gedung Batu in Semarang, Central Java, commemorates the spirit of a Chinese admiral, Cheng Ho (or Sam Poo Kong, his saintly name). A legendary Muslim eunuch of the Ming Dynasty, Cheng Ho landed on Java in 1406 with a treasure fleet of 62 vessels and 28,000 sailors.

The admiral, over 2 meters tall with glaring eyes, teeth as white as shells, and a voice as loud as a huge bel