Genjermania in Berlin

THE sound of the fretless bass guitar breaks the silence at Engels Caf in Berlin. Tomi Simatupang, alone and in a black T-shirt, begins gently singing the lyrics of a certain folk song.

At turns, Tomi talks about the relationship between Genjer-genjer (water lettuce), and the mass killings of 1965 in Indonesia. He also plays other numbers like Di Bawah Sinar Bulan Purnama (Under the Moonlight), Ade Irma Suryani, and Bhineka Tunggal Ika (Unity in Diversity), whose verses are derived from the Javanese poetry Kakawin Sutasoma. Running commentary and footage of the tragedy, which occurred 50 years ago this year, are projected on a screen behind Tomi. In front, 50 attendees sit and watch in silence.