Biak Papua
The Last Painting in Padaido

TWO hours into a pleasant voyage on the waters of the Padaido group of islands to the south of Biak in Papua, the situation became tense. That Saturday morning two weeks ago, photographer Tony Hartawan and I had just passed Pakreki island. The waters around this large unoccupied, rocky island covered in lush tropical forest, seemed to be a final test for us before arriving at our destination: Meosmangguandi island.

The sea, which had earlier been quite calm, suddenly became very rough. Suddenly, our boat, a 'johnson' perahu, as local fishermen call their traditional boats with attached engines, was hit by waves coming from all directions. Tony, who was sitting in the stern, several times glanced to the rear, a fixed smile on his face. I responded with no less a worried expression. "Meosmangguandi!" The shout from Melkias Rumkorem, a traditional Meosmangguandi elder, brought with it a new sense of calm. He pointed towards where the boat was heading, all while it was rising, falling and rolling from side to side over the waves.