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The Changing Face of Alun-Alun

Tuesday, September 28, 2004

It used to be an alun-alun, a vast courtyard of the Kanoman Palace. Today, it’s a shabby, noisy marketplace—a picture of the decline of the once-prosperous kingdom in Cirebon.

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HUNDREDS of people mill around like an army of ants within the narrow alleyways of the market where vendors offer all kinds of commodities: jambu kelutuk (guavas), squid, salt, clothing. The air is filled with all sorts of odors: sweet-smelling snacks, pungent spices, and rotting fish. Everywhere hawkers compete for shoppers’ attention, shouting and yelling in a cacophony of deafening noises as dangdut music blaring from all sides adds to t

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