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Mellow Maluku

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Centuries ago the lure of spices grown in the Maluku islands led Europeans to undertake voyages many of them would never return from. So great was their lure that they faced the dangers of drowning, scurvy and starvation.

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These days getting to Maluku does not present quite the same hazards. Technically it is only a two-hour plane ride from Surabaya. But having travelled those two hours you find yourself in a place with a completely new set of rules. When you are talking island-time hills become mountains, and seas oceans. Islands that look like specks on a map swell up to gargantuan obstacles.

Theoretically, getting around Maluku is all so simple. There are plan

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