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IT is hard to believe that another year, another decade, will soon go by. For Indonesia it has been a momentous period. In 1998, the nation shed an authoritarian system of government and embarked on the road to reform. Power devolved to the provinces—seven of which were created in the past decade alone—and everyone from the president to governors, district and village heads are now elected directly by the people.

The hope was that an inclusi

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