Twilight at Sun Mountain

THE earthquake which rocked Nias two weeks ago did not spare Bawomataluwo, an ancient cluster of villages not far from Dalam Bay, South Nias. "It is difficult to use the jumping stone again," said Memoris Wau, 50, the head of Bawomataluwo village, looking at the hombo batu, now in ruins. Memoris is rightly depressed: the stone-jumping attraction known as fahombe is an important ritual for the residents of Bawomataluwo.

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