Keeping the Faith in Larantuka

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

For five centuries, people of Larantuka, a coastal town on East Flores, would recite devotional prayers for Our Mother of Dolorosa—also known as Tuan Ma. The statue of Tuan Ma existed long before the Dominican missionaries arrived from Portugal to spread their religion. This is the oldest communal devotional in the history of the Catholic Church in Indonesia. This town keeps a wealth of spiritual relics, making it an attractive tourism destination. However, the existing poor infrastructure continues to keep this pilgrimage town unknown and unexplored by the outside world. Tempo reporter Pramono and photographer Aryus P. Soekarno report on the unique tradition of Larantuka’s devotional for Tempo English Edition.

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IT was as if the interior of the Tuan Ma Chapel was shrouded in swirling mist that Thursday afternoon at the beginning of October. The fragrant smoke of incense wafted up from a brazier, while thousands of candles burned brightly, accompanied by the melodious sound of hymns sung in praise of the Virgin Mary.

An elderly nun genuflected before placing a votive offering on the red carpet, then, still on her knees, turned slowly with her hands clas

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