IT was about 10pm local time in Padang Aji village, Selat Karang Asem. After a number of folk dance performances, it was time for the Walunateng Dirah, a dance marking the beginning of Calon Arang, a play being performed by Sandhi Murti Institution.

Gripping tension descended on this remote mountainous village. The arena of the village temple, where a piodalan rite was occurring, was in complete silence despite more than 500 people in the audien