THE renovation and decoration of Baiturrahim Mosque in Ulee Lheue, the port area of Banda Aceh, is nearing completion. The cracked floor has been resurfaced and the dirty walls have been repainted. Standing in an imposing position are two wooden pavilion-like verandas to the north of the mosque. Neatly laid, strong concrete blocks cover the floor.

This old mosque symbolizes Acehs resilience. On the first days following the tsunami disaster, an