CALANG is a broken city, long before it was able to grow. After it was flattened by the tsunami, this capital of Greater Aceh Regency is limping back again to life. Were starting back from zero, said Bukhari, Calang Deputy Regent, when Tempo visited the town two weeks ago. What was once known as the towns infrastructure has vanished.

The week-long rain has turned the roads in Calang into mud holes. One year after the disaster, the town is still c