AT sunset, the call to prayer was heard over the commotion of Tanah Abang market in Jakarta. Kiosks and shops in the heart of this trading center had just locked their doors. The call to prayer was broadcast over loudspeakers from the Al-Munawwarah Mosque nearby, which stood 100 meters from the business district. About 20 men formed themselves in two rows.

Located down a 4-meter alleyway, this two-story mosque holds an important part in the pers