A WHITE house on Jalan Peneleh, Surabaya, had its teakwood door and two small window frames on either side painted green. But nothing else was new at this house, which used to belong to Haji Oemar Said Tjokroaminoto. "The floor is still nothing more than hard cement," said Mariyun, head of the local neighborhood association.

This house with many rooms belonging to the founder of the Sarekat Islam (Islamic Union) was once a boarding house for leaders