THE morning mist was still in the air in the Jungkat area, Pontianak, West Kalimantan. It was early Friday morning last week when TEMPO journeyed along the estuary of the Kapuas River aboard a small motorboat. To the left and right of the shallows of the river could be seen many warehouses as well as private wharves or public harbors.

In the distance, a large wooden ship could be seen unloading its cargo. What was rather odd, however, was th