JL. Bendul, Purwakarta, West Java, looked deserted last Wednesday. A far cry from three months ago when the Cikampek-Purwakarta-Padalarang (Cipularang) toll road had not been opened. Ibu Effendi, owner of the Bendul peuyeum food stall and Plered ceramics handicrafts, sat on a white plastic chair, reading a newspaper. Not a single buyer had dropped by.

She was not alone. Dozens of similar food stalls lining both sides of the street are suff