WITH a machete in his hand and a bow and arrows hanging from his back, the middle-aged man cut his way through the bushes into the forests of the Wasur National Park in the Papua district of Merauke. Hes Yusuf Balagaize, a hunter from Kampung Yereuw in the subdistrict of Rawabiru. Leaving in the morning or at night is happy hunting if you return with a deer and a kangaroo or two in your bag, he says.

Almost each day Yusuf, a noken (the traditiona