HISTORIAN Muhamad Taufiqul, 49, was once known as a military observer. The man who now lives in Solo, Central Java, and was the expert staff posted in the army at the end of the Suharto government, is also a collector and observer of keris. His personal museum now houses more than 500 collectors items.

A 25.5x5-meter room, infused by the aroma of incense, houses this collection. The items are neatly arranged like the standing figures of shadow w