ONE morning in 2004, a few days before the new year, life in Nanggroe Aceh Darussalam came to a standstill for just a few seconds. The terrifying 8.9-magnitude earthquake which shook the land was immediately followed by the crashing roar of gigantic waves, drowning areas of Banda Aceh, Meulaboh, Pidie, North Aceh, East Aceh and other coastal regions in Sumatra. Everything in the way of the tsunami was flattened. When it finally receded back to se