TEBUIRENG, an old pesantren (Islamic boarding school) in Jombang, East Java, was suddenly crowded and alive with the arrival of a number of well-known kiai (Islamic cleric) from several corners of Indonesia. Earlier in the day around 50 important clerics came to this pesantren, where the Nahdlatul Ulama (NU) mass Muslim organization was born. Most of them were wearing sarongs, coats and bakiak (wooden sandals), but they also carried hand ph