A SEA of people had filled the North Courtyard of Yogyakarta, on Tuesday afternoon last week. The crowd spilled over to Jalan Malioboro, running all the way to Wirobrajan, Gampingan, the People’s Recreation Park, Ngabean Bus Station, and Bintaran—about 2 kilometers from the center of activity.

They were attending the Pisowanan Agung—a ceremony for the people of Mataram to face their king. When Sultan Hamengku Buwono X took the stage in th