It was not the sound of the usual prayer chants of Hindu worship but of the salawat, a Muslim prayer for the Prophet Muhammad, which floated up from the Gerenceng-Pemecutan Puri, or Balinese royal palace, on Jalan Diponegoro in Denpasar one Tuesday in August. Hundreds of Muslims solemnly chanting prayers filled every inch of the audience hall.

It was the holy month of Ramadan, and Anak Agung Ngurah Agung was hosting a dinner to mark the breakin