EVERY October 28 I am reminded of soto. On that day in 1928, when the youths made their pledge for one country, one nation, and one language, there was no general acclaim for one soto, Indonesian soto to be heard.

And so it is that we can still taste Bandung soto, Banjar soto, Betawi soto, Kudus soto, Pekalongan soto, Madura soto and so forth, all those sotos side by side from west to eastthis is what Indonesia is.

It is impossible to regulate soto