I WAS suddenly enshrouded in darkness. There were only stars, and no moonlight. In front of me walked Marzuki, 24, with a machine gun slung over his shoulder. Ten other soldiers of the Free Aceh Movement (GAM)—most of them toting Kalashnikov rifles—marched in single file behind me. Dragging my feet, I kept march with the guerrillas. Flashlights could only be turned on for short periods of time. Looking towards the rear, I saw the ba