KWATISORE, CENDRAWASIH NATIONAL PARK, PAPUA
Underwater Wonder

Only in Kwatisore can one observe whale sharks swim to the surface, sometimes rubbing their six-ton bulk on the side of fishing boats and even, locals claim, teasing the divers. It's a sea adventure that requires passion and pluck.

November 19, 2013

AFTER two hours of slicing through the waves in the heat of the day at Cenderawasih Bay, our boatcarrying myself and photographer Ruly Kesumaarrives at the Kali Lemon Resort in Kwatisore, Nabire, Papua. It's quiet. There is no phone signal. It's like going back in time. Every now and then, we hear the chirp of birds, a wild dog's bark, a rush of wind, and the buzz of cicadas.

A lone eagle and a party of hornbills fly from tree to tree to greet our ar

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