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November 24, 2015 edition

We had heard about an implausibly remote and isolated ecolodge called '4 Pohon'. We were told it was not for everyone, only for those looking for a bit of adventure. That's all we needed. Located in the northwest center of Flores between Pota and Riung, 4 Pohon is in the middle of a totally natural environment. Off a dirt track that feels like the very end of the road, only a small sign announced its presence to the occasional passing car or motorcycle carrying a cloud of dust in their wake.
Driving through the front gate was like happening upon a small village. The resort is named after four great tamarind trees found at the entrance. The moment we entered the compound we were in the hands of Olivier ('Oli' for short), Roland, Renza and the rest of the friendly and attentive staff, all knowledgeable about Flores and Indonesia with plenty of stories to tell.

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October 20, 2015 edition

Occupying more than 225,000 square kilometers of West Papua Province, the BHS encompasses not only Raja Ampat's world-renowned reefs, but also the extraordinary undersea wilderness near Kaimana, called Triton Bay, as well as Indonesia's largest marine park, Cenderawasih Bay. Within the BHS, marine scientists have recorded a record-shattering 1756 distinct fish species, over 75 percent of the world's known hard corals and over 50 percent of the known soft corals. A network of twelve Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) keep reefs safe from commercial trawlers and destructive practices like dynamite fishing.
Beyond the MPAs, an unprecedented partnership between BHS coastal communities, local, regional and national authorities, and regional and international NGOs seek to balance the needs of the Seascape's human population while effectively protecting its rich natural resources. The BHS exemplifies the priorities of the six-nation Coral Triangle Initiative, and is being promoted as a national model for Indonesia's future marine resource management. Indeed, a movement to protect manta rays and sharks had its roots in Raja Ampat, which became the Coral Triangle's first shark and ray sanctuary. The movementspread throughout Indonesia. In 2014, the Indonesian Ministry of Fisheries declared a nation-wide manta sanctuary, the world's largest, for both species of manta rays.

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